What’s the point of the Camera RAW filter then? It’s still a great way to apply basic processing to anything other than RAW data. If you get a +/-100 scale, you are not getting the benefit of the RAW data.
If it is in Kelvin (a scale from 2-50,000), you are working on the RAW data. These two approaches look nearly the same, and a good reminder is to always take a quick look at the white balance temperature slider. This will let you make all your RAW edits on the actual RAW data. Instead, you should double-click the layer’s thumbnail to open the Camera RAW interface.
So you should never apply the Camera RAW filter to your Camera RAW Smart Object. The difference of these two approaches can be pretty significant for recovery of extreme details and color. In other words, using the Camera RAW Filter outside the Smart Object prevents the algorithm from working on the best possible data. The RAW data is processed before any filter can be applied to it. Which means that the outside of your Smart Object is just like a flat TIF file. Photoshop essentially rasterizes your Smart Object before applying any Smart Filter. Misconception #3: The Camera RAW Filter does not use your RAW data! The only way to tell them apart once they are created is to change one and see if any others change as well. The Smart Object icon on the layers is the same either way, so be careful. For example, you might use stronger noise reduction on on version of the image, and then use a layer mask to selectively apply that noise reduction to shadow areas of the image. This approach is helpful when you want to use different RAW processing on different parts of the image. “New Smart Object via Copy” (right-click the layer) creates an independent layer which uses DIFFERENT processing settings. For example, you might apply Nik Color Efex to extract more detail from buildings, and then Nik Dfine to reduce noise in the sky above. This approach is helpful if you want to apply different filters or different filter masks to the same image. If you change the contents of either (by double-clicking into one of them), you change both of them. “New layer via copy” (-J) or “Duplicate” creates a new layer which use the SAME processing settings as the original Smart Object. Misconception #2: Not all copies are created equal So if don’t need the flexibility to make changes later, you’re probably better off skipping the Smart Objects to save a bit of file space. But the algorithm used in Lightroom or in Adobe Camera RAW (inside the smart object) is exactly the same and produces the same results. The only difference is that you can make changes to recreate that flat layer. As far as the image is concerned, the Smart Object is exactly the same as a flat layer.
Misconception #1: Smart Objects do not provide better quality than exporting a TIF from Lightroom.Īn exported TIF, Camera RAW Smart Object, or rasterized Smart Object are all going to give you the same results (assuming you used the same RAW settings to create each of them).